The most important pigment components

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1. Background

In the field of permanent makeup (PMU) pigmentology, understanding certain substances is crucial for every artist. To provide comprehensive insights, we consulted two chemists and two dermatologists while also reaching out to over 30 top-earning Powder Brows and Lip Blush artists. This article focuses on the substances commonly found in pigments, explained in a way that resonates with the practical experience of seasoned artists.

2. Organic CI 10,000 - CI 76,999

Organic pigments are known for their vibrant, rich colors, categorized by their origins. However, they often have lower durability and stability, with a tendency to migrate due to smaller particle sizes, which can challenge even skin distribution. Additionally, these pigments are more prone to skin sensitization and UV sensitivity. When using organic pigments, lighter techniques with short, powdery strokes are recommended. The Color Index (CI) of these pigments usually ranges from 10,000 to 76,999.

Due to these complexities, organic pigments are best suited for experienced artists skilled in delicate, layered work. Caution is necessary as bold contours can become permanent. These pigments are ideal for individuals with oily or thick skin but require careful application.

3. Inorganic CI 77,000 - CI 77,999

In contrast, inorganic pigments are celebrated for their stability and longevity. They offer a more muted color palette and larger particle sizes, reducing migration and blowout risks. These pigments are less likely to cause skin sensitization and are UV-resistant, typically falling within the CI range of 77,000 to 77,999. Applying inorganic pigments effectively involves layered and tightly distributed techniques. Their forgiving nature makes them suitable for beginners in PMU.

Inorganic pigments, designed specifically for PMU, often require multiple layers to achieve the desired effect. Some pigment may peel off as the skin heals. Suitable for various skin types, including normal, combination, dry, and mature, they are preferred by clients seeking a natural look.

Currently, the market is seeing a rise in hybrid pigments, which combine organic and inorganic elements.

4. CI 77266 - Carbon Black

CI 77266, also known as Carbon Black, is a deeply pigmented inorganic substance with strong covering power. Interestingly, it behaves similarly to organic pigments due to its small particle size. This pigment, darker than black iron oxide, can fade to a greyish tone over time.

The particle size of CI 77266 varies depending on the production method, affecting its properties. Smaller particles yield a more intense color but are more challenging to disperse, whereas larger particles are easier to spread but provide less coverage.

Carbon Black is known for its longevity and resistance to fading. When combined with Titanium Dioxide White, it tends to last longer in the skin compared to other pigments, though it may leave a greyish or ashy residue.

There are three primary methods of producing CI 77266: Channeling, Furnacing, and Thermal processing.

Channeling involves using natural gas to produce a product called channel black, featuring the smallest particle size (90-100 nanometers). It is the darkest, almost opaque, and slightly bluish, with an acidic nature that helps prevent clustering.

Furnacing uses petroleum-based oils, resulting in particles sized 200-300 nanometers with a greenish, semi-opaque color. This complex but efficient method also generates reusable gases.

Thermal processing, using ethylene gas, yields the largest particles, up to 500 nanometers, with a brownish color and the least opacity. It's almost entirely inorganic.

Channel Black comprises 19% organic and 81% inorganic components. Furnace Black is 55% organic and 45% inorganic. Thermal Black is 99% inorganic, as elemental Carbon is considered inorganic.

Thermal Black is the safest option for powder brows due to its large particle size, resulting in a brownish undertone that fades into an anthracite shade over time.

Carbon Black's classification as organic or inorganic varies based on the production method. Each type has distinct properties that determine its suitability for specific PMU applications.

5. CI 77 499 - Black Iron Oxide

Black Iron Oxide, known by the Color Index code CI 77499, is an inorganic and hydrophobic pigment. Being hydrophobic, it repels water, making it less prone to mixing with water-based solutions. Essentially, it's water-resistant and not derived from organic materials. It's typically categorized as iron oxide in its second oxidation stage, with the chemical formula Fe3O4, uniquely containing iron in both +2 and +3 oxidation states.

In terms of color, Black Iron Oxide has a rich, warm hue. It is lighter than Carbon Black and tends to shift to warmer tones over time. This difference in color intensity between Black Iron Oxide and Carbon Black is largely due to their particle sizes – larger particles like Black Iron Oxide appear lighter, while smaller particles like Carbon Black appear darker.

Interestingly, despite its formula Fe3O4 being naturally present in iron ore, Black Iron Oxide is synthesized in laboratories to ensure purity and avoid heavy metal contamination.

According to the Environmental Working Group's (EWG) Skin Deep database, Black Iron Oxide is generally considered safe in cosmetology, scoring a 'fair' hazard rating of 2-4.

A unique characteristic of Black Iron Oxide (Fe3O4) is its magnetic properties. There have been instances where magnets adhered to pigment bottles containing it. This magnetism doesn't indicate harmful heavy metals but could potentially affect Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI) in very large quantities, far exceeding those used in powder brows or lip blush treatments.

Historically sourced from iron ore, which might have contained traces of other metals, modern Black Iron Oxide is lab-synthesized, virtually eliminating such contamination concerns. Claims of heavy metal presence in today's synthesized form are generally debunked by experts.

Moreover, Black Iron Oxide pigments often include glycerine, serving as a binder to loosely hold the pigment particles and as a solvent to affect the pigment's consistency. This makes its behavior distinct from pigments using other binders like shellac.

6. CI 77891 - Titanium Dioxide White

Titanium Dioxide White, labeled as CI 77891 or TiO2, is a widely used inorganic pigment in cosmetology, particularly in lip and eyebrow pigments. Its primary function is to enhance the reflectivity of other colors in a pigment blend, aiding in stabilizing the color and preventing it from shifting into undesired shades. When added to pigments, Titanium Dioxide results in a more opaque and less vibrant color compared to those without it, which tend to be more transparent and translucent.

A critical aspect of CI 77891 is how it behaves in pigment metabolism within the skin. For instance, if a pigment containing Titanium Dioxide White is mixed with water and left to settle, the Titanium Dioxide particles will separate and settle at the bottom. This behavior suggests that the compound may segregate from the rest of the mixture, potentially affecting its interaction with skin tissues over time.

Titanium Dioxide White stands out for its opacity and covering capability, effectively lightening pigment colors and providing substantial coverage. This property is particularly beneficial in color correctors. Additionally, it boasts high lightfastness, meaning it remains stable under light exposure. This stability contributes to its longevity, leaving a residual color that can vary from ashy or grey to a nude-yellow hue.

It is important to note that when mixed with organic-based pigments—those primarily composed of organic ingredients—the resulting color tends to be durable but may become duller and cooler over time. This consideration is vital for brow pigments, which may require a warm color boost, often achieved with orange or yellow-based pigments, to preserve their initial warmth and vibrancy. Neglecting to add such warm undertones can lead to a cooler, more subdued appearance as other pigments like red and yellow fade. A common mistake is using a dark, cool pigment without accounting for this factor, which can intensify the coolness in the brows as time progresses.

7. Additional Inorganic Pigments

CI 77288 and CI 77289 Chromium Oxides

Chromium Oxides, identified as CI 77288 and CI 77289, are inorganic pigments used in cosmetics for their green hues. CI 77288 is known as Chromium Oxide Greens, while CI 77289 is referred to as Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green. Both are deemed safe for cosmetic use by EU and FDA guidelines. These pigments are highly stable, offering good heat and light resistance, making them ideal for stable color in lip blush, powder brows and other cosmetics. Although they occur naturally in minerals, cosmetic-grade versions are typically lab-synthesized for purity and consistent color.

CI 77491 Red Iron Oxides

Red Iron Oxide, or CI 77491 (Fe2O3), is valued for its vibrant red color. It's deemed safe by EU standards and scores 1-2 on EWG's Skin Deep Database. Renowned for its stability and longevity on the skin, Red Iron Oxide is a popular choice among artists.

CI 77492 Yellow Iron Oxides

Yellow Iron Oxide, represented by the formula FeO(OH) or FeO(OH)·nH2O, differs chemically and structurally from Red Iron Oxide (Fe2O3). Both forms are safe according to EU standards and have low hazard scores on the EWG's Skin Deep Database. Known for their stability in the skin, Iron Oxides are commonly used in microblading pigments. While naturally occurring in forms like ochre, most are lab-synthesized today for purity and consistency.

CI 77007 Sodium Aluminosilicate (Ultramarine Blue)

Ultramarine Blue, CI code 77007, is a complex inorganic pigment composed of sodium, aluminum, silicon, and oxygen. It's used in cosmetics, including microblading pigments, for its stability and vibrant blue hue. Considered safe in the EU and the US, it's non-toxic and stable over time. While found in natural sources like lapis lazuli, cosmetic-grade Ultramarine Blue is typically synthesized for purity.

8. Additional Organic Pigments

CI 11783 Yellow Pigment (Yellow 120)

An organic pigment used for its yellow color in cosmetics. It complies with EU and FDA safety regulations and is known for its stable color. The pigment is often lab-synthesized for purity and consistency.

CI 12475 or 12475:1 Red Pigment (Red 170)

Commonly referred to as Red 170, this organic pigment is used for its vibrant red shade in cosmetics. It's safe under EU and FDA standards and is known for strong colorfastness, typically lab-synthesized.

CI 19140:1 FD&C Yellow 5

A synthetic organic dye approved by the FDA for use in cosmetics and food, and complying with EU safety standards. It's recognized for its bright yellow color and stability.

CI 561170 (ORANGE 73)

An organic pigment often used for its orange hue in cosmetics. Considered safe under EU and FDA regulations, it offers good stability and color retention.

CI 11767 Yellow Pigment 97

An organic yellow pigment commonly used in cosmetics. Recognized as safe by EU and FDA guidelines, it is valued for its stable yellow color.

CI 56110 - Red Pigment (Red 254)

An organic red pigment known for its deep red hue and safety. It's often used in cosmetics for its durability and bright, stable color.

CI 561300 - Red Pigment (Red 264)

An organic pigment used for its red shade in cosmetics. It is safe and stable.

CI 56298 - Yellow Pigment (Yellow 139)

This organic pigment is used for its yellow shade in cosmetics and is known for its safety and stability.

CI 56300 Yellow Pigment (Yellow 138)

Typically synthesized in labs for consistent quality and safety.

CI 200310 - Yellow Pigment 155

Known as Yellow Pigment 155, this organic pigment is used in cosmetics for its yellow hue. It is safe for use according to EU and FDA standards and offers excellent color stability.

9. The “Carrier"

Pigment Formula: Colorant + Carrier The colorant provides the color that is deposited into the skin. Additives like solvents, binders, and fillers work together to stabilize the formula, assist in the application process, and influence the pigment's longevity. These additives, combined with the colorant, constitute the complete pigment formula in the bottle.

The "Carrier," also known as "Paint Base" or "Medium," is a crucial part of the pigment. It includes various components such as solvents, binders, and other additives. These substances serve specific functions, facilitating the pigment's application, influencing its staying power, and contributing to its overall behavior in the skin. They work alongside the colorant to create the final pigment mixture used during the procedure.

10. Solvents as Dispersants

Solvents are substances that help disperse pigment particles. Common solvents include water, alcohol, and glycerine. They function more as dispersants, ensuring an even distribution of pigment particles throughout the liquid carrier. This prevents clumping and maintains a smooth, consistent color upon application.

Witch-hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) is a plant whose leaves and fruit are used to make a semi-liquid substance. It is a gentle and cooling agent, commonly found in cosmetics for its soothing properties, particularly in creams and gels for rashes and swelling. Purified water in pigments is not ordinary drinking water; it is free from contaminants. The chemical formula is H2O or HOH, representing its molecular shape. Purified through methods like osmosis, filtration, and distillation, this water is tasteless and odorless.

Alcohols vary widely in chemistry, with different types having vastly different effects. For instance, ethanol in wine can be beneficial, whereas methanol can be lethal or cause blindness. In pigments, it's crucial to examine the specific alcohol used in the formula, as small changes can result in different effects.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) is used to maintain moisture and liquidity in pigments. It's produced by reacting ethylene oxide with water or ethylene glycol. Common in laxatives and cosmetics, PEG is generally safe, although some rare allergic reactions have been reported. It's also found in products like toothpaste, so those allergic to PEG likely consume it in other forms.

Isopropyl alcohol (C3H8O), or isopropanol, is a simple antiseptic and solvent used in the mixing of pigment substances. It's commonly used as an antiseptic and also functions as a solvent in pigments.

11. Binders

Binders help pigment adhere to the applied surface. Common binders in pigments include glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), Isopropyl palmitate (C19H38O2), natural resins like rosin and shellac, and block copolymers such as acrylates. Glycerine (C3H8O3) - aka Glycerol or Sugar Alcohol

Mostly derived from natural sources, glycerine is an odorless, colorless liquid with a sweet taste, used as a sweetener in the food industry. It maintains the moisture and prevents evaporation of other pigment components. Glycerine can be obtained from animal sources, soybeans, or palm oil, often produced through the reaction of different alcohols with triglycerides.

Rosin (C15H20O6)

Extracted from pine tree resin, rosin is sometimes a byproduct of paper production. It thickens and solidifies various products, including medications and chewing gum, and serves as an emulsifier in soft drinks like Gatorade. In pigments, rosin adds solidity and thickness. Concerns about its safety in food are often related to quantity.

Shellac

A natural resin secreted by the lac bug, shellac is used in pigmentaton pigments for its adhesive properties, contributing to consistent and lasting color. While safe for cosmetic use, it's not vegan-friendly due to its animal origin.

Isopropyl Palmitate (C19H38O2)

Derived from palm and coconut oils, this substance thickens pigments and unites various components, creating a clearer, shinier, softer, and smoother product. Concerns about it causing acne or clogged pores are generally exaggerated in the context of pigments.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

A stabilizing agent in pigmentation pigments, PVP enhances adherence and longevity of color. Safe for cosmetics, it ensures uniform application and contributes to the pigment's overall quality.

Propylene Glycol (C3H8O2)

Often misunderstood due to its presence in antifreeze, propylene glycol is safe in small amounts, as affirmed by the FDA. In pigments, it's used to maintain moisture and is odorless, colorless, and tasteless.

12. Fillers and Other Additives

These encompass preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters. They serve roles from preserving the pigment to modifying its consistency or pH level.

A single substance can have multiple functions. For example, glycerine can be both a solvent and a binder, depending on its concentration and the pigment's formulation.

Overall, the "carrier" holds and disperses pigment particles and may include various additives for improved application and extended shelf life.

13. Conclusions

Understanding key substances based on the Color Index (CI) is essential. Organic pigments are denoted by CI numbers ranging from 10,000 to 76,999, while inorganic pigments fall under the CI range of 77,000 to 77,999.

Important colorants to be familiar with include Carbon Black (CI 77266), Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), and Titanium Dioxide White (CI 77891).

Additional noteworthy colorants are the following.

Inorganic

Chromium Oxides (CI 77288 and CI 77289)
Red Iron Oxides (CI 77491)
Yellow Iron Oxides (CI 77492)
Sodium Aluminosilicate Violet or Ultramarine Blue (CI 77007)

Organic

Yellow Pigment Yellow 120 (CI 11783)
Red Pigment Red 170 (CI 12475 or 12475:1)
FD&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140:1)
Orange 73 (CI 561170)
Yellow Pigment 97 (CI 11767)
Red Pigment Red 254 (CI 56110)
Red Pigment Red 264 (CI 561300)
Yellow Pigment Yellow 139 (CI 56298)
Yellow Pigment Yellow 138 (CI 56300)
Yellow Pigment 155 (CI 200310)

Apart from the colorant, the remainder of the pigment formula in the bottle is known as the "Carrier," "Paint Base," or "Medium." This part of the pigment facilitates the dispersal of pigment molecules, binds them together, and assists in their insertion into the skin. Components within the "Carrier" fulfill various roles, which are the following.

Solvents. This category includes substances like Witch-hazel, Purified water, Glycerine (C3H8O3), Polyethylene Glycol, Isopropyl alcohol (C3H8O), and other alcohols.
Binders. Examples are Glycerine, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Isopropyl Palmitate (C19H38O2), Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and natural resins such as Rosin and Shellac.
Fillers and Other Additives. These may include preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters.