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How to read pigment labels?

Jan 19, 2024, Update: Jan 19, 2024, author: Lipblush.com / Holistic PMU
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"Understanding pigment labels doesn't have to be overly complicated. Approach them with practicality and realistic expectations. Keep in mind that companies often disclose just the essentials on these labels. In the world of pigmentation, hands-on experience often proves more insightful than the details on a label."

1. Background


Pigment labels contain valuable information that can help artists like you make informed decisions. However, there's often a gap in the general understanding of these labels. This article's insights come from interviews with 21 Powder Brows and Lip Blush artists, among the most successful in their regions. Of these artists, 16 also offer other procedures, such as lip and eyeliner pigmentation. The majority work in the U.S., with five based in EU countries and two in the UK. Interestingly, the artists' geographical location does not significantly influence how they interpret pigment labels, likely due to the universal recognition of chemical components.

Adopting a Realistic Approach

It's important to have realistic expectations when interpreting pigment labels. Many companies opt to provide only the minimum information necessary on their labels, adhering to the principle of revealing as little as possible but as much as is required. Consequently, these labels primarily focus on meeting technical specifications. As an artist, you shouldn't expect to uncover significant revelations from the color codes or additives list on these labels. The likelihood of discovering hidden secrets about the manufacturer from these details is quite slim.

2. Technical Requirements


Technical Requirements in the EU

In the European Union, cosmetic pigments like Lip Blush are regulated under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products. This regulation demands a thorough safety assessment of all pigments by qualified experts before marketing. Every component, including colorants, must be listed with their Color Index (CI) numbers. Additionally, concentrations of heavy metals such as lead, mercury, and arsenic must be within safe limits. The EU also strictly prohibits animal testing for cosmetic products and requires detailed traceability for each product batch to address safety concerns or facilitate recalls. Manufacturers and importers must comply with REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulations to safeguard human health and the environment.

Technical Requirements in the US

The regulation of pigments in the United States falls under the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) jurisdiction, as per the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Contrary to EU practices, some color additives in the U.S. require FDA pre-market approval, and each batch undergoes impurity testing. Mandatory labeling of all ingredients, including potential allergens, is required. The FDA also certifies color additives for safety and quality. Moreover, pigment manufacturers must follow Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices (CGMP) to ensure product safety and quality. Despite stringent regulations in both regions, specific requirements may vary, making it crucial for businesses to understand and comply with these different standards.

Critical Observations About Animal Testing

When pigments are labeled as "not tested on animals," it's important to understand the rationale behind this claim. Often, it's not about ethical choices but the fact that the chosen colorants and additives for the liquid carrier have been sufficiently tested over time, making additional tests unnecessary. For instance, extensive testing on forms of Carbon Black (CI 77266) has established its skin safety. Interestingly, some of these tests have involved New Zealand rabbits, symbolizing anti-animal testing campaigns. Though mild compared to other forms of animal cruelty, these tests highlight the real reasons behind such marketing strategies, influenced by legal requirements and ethical considerations.

Practical Considerations

The key takeaway is this: a pigment label shows only what the manufacturer chooses to reveal. Reputable companies are unlikely to violate regulations, so you can trust that all components have been properly tested. However, the information provided is often just the minimum required by regulations. Therefore, don't expect to discover extensive details about the pigment's contents, safety, or health risks from the label alone.

3. Safety and Marketing Strategies


Pigment Makers' Marketing Considerations

The marketing strategies of pigment producers in the market are diverse, so a realistic approach to their promotional rhetoric is essential. For instance, if a maker's pigments contain iron oxides like CI 77491 (Red Iron Oxide), CI 77492 (Yellow Iron Oxide), or CI 77499 (Black Iron Oxide), they might highlight the benefits of these components.

Marketing of Iron Oxides and Carbon

Despite iron sometimes being classified as a heavy metal, the label "free from heavy metals" is often used by producers whose pigments contain iron oxides. They typically define heavy metals strictly as hazardous substances like lead, mercury, cadmium, or chromium. Pigment contents are then presented as "officially certified" and made from "synthetically processed, refined, and purified iron oxide." Producers operate within legal boundaries and categorize their products in the most favorable light, so those using iron oxide may emphasize the absence of "heavy metals" based on specific classifications that exclude iron.

Safety Aspects - General Safety of Iron Oxides and Carbon

Dermatologists confirm that pigments containing iron oxides are generally as safe as those with carbon black colorants when properly formulated. Both have undergone thorough safety evaluations, are considered non-toxic, and are inert in pigment form. Iron oxides are often synthetically manufactured for purity and are free from harmful heavy metal impurities. Similarly, when properly processed and purified carbon black poses a low risk of allergic reactions or toxicity. The key to their safety lies in the quality of the manufacturing process and the absence of hazardous additives or contaminants.

Pigments' Magnetic Properties and Health Risks

Dermatologists and medical professionals state that the magnetic properties of some semi-permanent makeup pigments, typically due to iron oxides, are not a health risk. These weak magnetic properties have minimal impact on the body's magnetic field or biological processes. For instance, iron oxide particles in MRI contrast agents, larger and more magnetically responsive than those in cosmetic pigments, are still considered safe for most people. In semi-permanent makeup, the minuscule magnetic attributes of pigments do not significantly interact with bodily tissues or systems. Concerns about pigment's magnetic properties are largely unfounded, provided the pigment is high quality, produced under strict manufacturing standards, and free from harmful contaminants.

Marketing of “Fully Organic” Carbon Black (CI 77266)

In the pigment industry, marketing terms can sometimes be misleading. For instance, some manufacturers label their Furnace Black pigments (Carbon Black 2) as "purely organic." This claim is based on the fact that these pigments contain about 55% hydrocarbon compounds, which are chemically considered “organic."

However, it's important to understand that no pigment can be entirely organic if it consists solely of hydrocarbons. Pigments usually contain a mix of compounds, including elemental carbon, which lacks the C-H bonds defining organic compounds. Moreover, these pigments often undergo processes involving inorganic substances and may include additives or other elements for stability and functionality. Therefore, while a pigment might have a significant portion of "organic" components, calling it "purely organic" can be misleading. Furnace Black pigments often contain about 25-30% carbon-related elements, 5-10% elemental carbon (inorganic), and around 10% trace inorganics like potassium (K), chlorine (Cl), and calcium (Ca).

4. General Observations

Regarding pigment color indexes, we can draw some conclusions about whether a pigment is organic or inorganic. Inorganic pigments typically have larger particles, less vibrant colors, and are more difficult to apply to the skin. This also makes them safer regarding blowouts and migration, usually healing to brownish colors over time. The opacity of a pigment is also linked to particle size.

Tyndall Effect

Inorganic pigments, having larger particle sizes than organic ones, interact with light differently, leading to a lighter appearance in the skin. The Tyndall effect, where light scatters through a medium with dispersed particles, significantly affects this. Inorganic pigments scatter light differently due to their larger particles, resulting in a more muted color appearance in the skin. Generally, the deeper the pigment molecule, the cooler and greyer it appears, making inorganic particles look more faded and less vibrant in the skin.

Lightfastness

The larger particle size of inorganic pigments also contributes to their lightfastness or resistance to fading under light exposure. These larger particles degrade less under UV radiation or other light sources, ensuring a more stable, enduring color than organic colorants.

Implantation Difficulty

Understanding a pigment's inorganic nature helps assess its practicality for different skin types and areas. For example, inorganic pigments may be challenging for Powder Brows on oily, "orange peel" textured or tough skin. Similarly, inorganic pigments might not be ideal for eyeliner applied between lashes, as the application is more difficult, potentially causing more skin damage and yielding less vibrant color. Therefore, considering the pigment's application area and desired retention is crucial. Retention with inorganic pigments can be significantly shorter, sometimes even half as long as with organic pigments.

5. Seeing Behind the Color Index


In specific applications like eyeliner, it's important to look beyond just the color index of the colorant. For instance, CI 77266 covers various forms of Carbon Black, including Carbon Black 2 ("Furnace Black"), Carbon Black 6 ("Channel Black"), and Carbon Black 7 ("Thermal Black"). While they share the same color index, their properties can vary significantly. For instance, Channel Black has a particle size of only 90-100 nanometers, while Thermal Black can be as large as 500 nanometers. If a label only shows the color index without additional details, further investigation into the pigment's production method is necessary for informed conclusions.

6. Seeing Behind the Particle Size

Particle size is a key factor in how easily a pigment implants into the skin, but it's not the sole determinant; the chemical composition is equally, if not more, important. Furnace black (Black 2), with a particle size of 200-300 nm, can be easier to implant than channel black (Black 6), which has a smaller particle size of 90-100 nm. This difference is due to the chemical makeup of the pigments. Furnace black has a higher hydrocarbon content (55%), which is organic and has a better affinity with skin tissues. Channel black's lower hydrocarbon content (19%) makes it less compatible with the skin despite its smaller size. Therefore, understanding particle size and chemical composition is essential for successful pigment implantation.

The critical aspect to consider is the chemical nature of the colorant. Carbon can appear as elemental carbon (inorganic) or hydrocarbon (bonding with hydrogen, C-H). This distinction impacts the ease of application more than particle size alone.

7. Order of CI codes


Understanding the Order of Color Indexes on the Label

The order of color index codes and additives on a pigment label generally reflects their concentration in the formula. The first listed ingredient is typically the most predominant. However, this alone isn't sufficient to fully understand a pigment's properties. For example, a pigment with black as the primary colorant but containing yellow or red colorants suggests warm undertones. Even if black is the most abundant, the presence of other colorants significantly influences the overall tone, affecting its suitability for specific applications like eyeliner.

Other elements on the label, such as thickeners like glycerine, also provide valuable insights. The concentration of such additives indicates the pigment's consistency, informing the best application technique. Additionally, understanding the shades of listed pigments can indicate potential cooling or warming effects post-application. This knowledge is crucial for achieving desired tonal results in procedures like eyeliner or brow shading. Therefore, a comprehensive view of all ingredients, not just the colorants, offers a deeper understanding of a pigment's behavior during and after application.

8. Conclusions


Understanding pigment labels requires realistic expectations. Companies often provide only the minimal information required to comply with regulations. While most pigments meet these regulatory standards, it's unlikely that labels will reveal significant, hidden details.

Labels should also be interpreted in the manufacturer's marketing strategy context. Different companies highlight the benefits of specific ingredients. For example, if pigments contain iron oxides, the marketing will likely focus on their advantages. Conversely, companies without organic pigments or iron oxides might emphasize the drawbacks of these omitted components.

Dermatologists confirm the general safety of iron oxides and carbon black, provided they are properly formulated. They also ensure that the magnetic properties of some pigments do not pose health risks, provided the pigments are high-quality and free from harmful contaminants.

Be skeptical of claims like "purely organic." No pigment can be entirely organic if it is composed solely of hydrocarbons. With their larger particle sizes, inorganic pigments tend to appear lighter and have more muted colors when implanted in the skin. It's essential to consider the implantation area of the pigment, as no single pigment is universally "best" - suitability depends on specific goals. For example, inorganic pigments may not be ideal for oily or tough skin types.

Additionally, the same color index can refer to different substances with varying particle sizes and properties, such as CI 77266 (Carbon Black), where properties differ based on whether it is Channeled, Furnaced, or Thermally Processed.

Particle size is a critical factor, but not the only one. The chemical composition also influences how easily a pigment implants into the skin. Other additives and colorants in the pigment should be analyzed in totality rather than basing conclusions solely on the order of ingredients in the list. The properties of a pigment cannot be determined simply by the first element with a CI number in the list.
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Alicia
Friday, Jan 19, 2024

Nice reading, totally love it – a very useful site. I love doing lips and I have found lots of interesting information from here.


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