Different Pigments

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1. Background

In preparing this article, we interviewed 34 Powder Brows experts, each with over four years of experience and belonging to the top earners in the industry. Their collective practical knowledge forms the basis of our insights. Additionally, we consulted two dermatologists, whose input led to several revisions and enhancements in our content. Pigments and pigmentology are often misunderstood and hotly debated in the semi-permanent makeup sector. This confusion primarily stems from two factors. Firstly, many artists have limited knowledge about the chemical properties of pigments. Secondly, the choices and consistency of pigments are significantly influenced by major producers, who often incentivize artists to endorse their products. These producers typically advocate for organic, inorganic, or hybrid pigments as "the best." However, Holistic PMU maintains independence from major pigment producers, enabling us to provide unbiased, fact-based information on this subject.

2. Understanding Pigments

Restrictions and Quality Standards

Pigments used for cosmetic purposes, such as tattooing and permanent makeup, are subject to strict quality controls. They must be produced under rigorous laboratory conditions to guarantee safety, consistency, and effectiveness. Each pigment should have a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), detailing the product's composition, potential hazards, and safety precautions.

Components Quality Control

The colorants in these pigments undergo dermatological testing to ensure skin safety. They must also have certifications confirming their safety. A crucial criterion is that these colorants be free of toxic and carcinogenic substances to prevent long-term health risks. In the European Union, pigment ingredients must comply with the European Council's ResAP Directive, setting approved substance standards for cosmetic use, tattooing, and permanent makeup dyes, ensuring uniform safety and quality standards across EU countries.

A Very Large Selection

The market offers various pigments with different compositions, colors, and consistencies. For example, some are water-based, while others are oil-based, influencing their retention and appearance on the skin. Professionals must thoroughly understand these products to achieve desired results and ensure the appearance remains consistent and appealing over time, even after the skin has healed.

Practical Truth - "Don't Trust the Label; Trust Your Experience”

Experienced artists often advise, "Don't trust the label; trust your experience." This suggests testing pigments personally to observe how they heal in the skin. It's important to use high-quality pigments for these tests, conducted over 6 to 12 months. By observing how different pigments heal on various skin types, artists can make more informed decisions, relying on their experience rather than just the product label.

3. The Components of Pigments

To comprehend pigments used in Permanent Makeup (PMU) and Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU), it's essential to understand their composition. A pigment is a mixture consisting of various components.

Colorants

These are the substances that give the pigment its color. In PMU and SPMU, colorants can be organic or inorganic. Organic colorants, typically carbon-based, offer a wide range of bright and vivid colors. Inorganic colorants, usually metal oxides, provide more natural, muted shades. Both types should be dermatologically tested and approved for skin contact.

Solvents

Solvents are liquids that hold and disperse colorants, such as water, alcohol, and glycerine. They function more as dispersants, helping to evenly distribute the colorant and often acting as preservatives. For instance, solvents carry the colorant like water carries sand, ensuring even application on the skin.

Binders

Binders assist in adhering the pigment to the skin. Common pigment binders include glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), natural resins like rosin and shellac, and block copolymers such as acrylates.

Fillers and Other Additives

These are preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters. They play various roles, from preserving the pigment to modifying its consistency or pH level.

Notably, a single substance can fulfill multiple functions. For example, glycerine can act as a solvent and a binder, depending on its concentration and the pigment's formulation.

Therefore, when categorizing pigments as “organic,” “inorganic,” or “hybrid,” the distinction is based on the type of colorant used, which is just one component of the mixture.

4. Understanding CI (Color Index)

The Color Index (CI) is an internationally recognized system for identifying pigments and dyes across various industries, including textiles, paints, and cosmetics. For Permanent Makeup (PMU) and Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU), CI provides crucial information about the chemical makeup, quality, and safety of pigments.

The CI system uses a prefix and a five-digit number. The prefix indicates the pigment's general chemical composition. For instance, "CI 77" refers to inorganic pigments, while "CI 19" suggests organic pigments.

Organic Pigment Numbers: 10000 to 76999

Organic pigments, with CI numbers ranging from 10000 to 76999, are carbon-based and noted for their bright, vivid colors. Often synthesized from petrochemicals, these pigments are generally less stable than inorganic ones under environmental factors like light and heat. Nevertheless, they are prized for their color intensity and variety. Within this range, CI 11000 to 36999 are designated for azo dyes.

Inorganic Pigment Numbers: 77000 to 77999

Inorganic pigments typically fall within the CI 77000 to 77999 range. These are usually metal oxides, known for their stability, particularly against environmental elements. Inorganic pigments offer more muted, natural colors than organic ones. Common examples include titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), which are standard in the PMU and SPMU industries.

Understanding the CI number helps professionals in the PMU and SPMU fields determine the type and properties of pigments, aiding in their selection and application process.

5. Colorants Categorized by Substance

In Permanent Makeup (PMU), colorants are classified into three main types based on their substance: Pigments, Lacs, and Dyes. Each type offers unique characteristics, benefits, and drawbacks, and understanding these distinctions is crucial for making informed choices in PMU procedures.

Colorant: Pigment

Pigments are known for their insolubility in water and other solvents. They have larger particle sizes than dyes, contributing to their stability against light, heat, and other environmental factors. This stability and size lead to better color retention in the skin. Pigments are generally non-reactive and less likely to cause allergies. However, they may offer a limited range of bright and vibrant colors. Within pigments are organic types (usually synthetic, carbon-based, offering bright colors) and inorganic types (like titanium dioxide and iron oxides, more stable but with muted colors).

Colorant: Lac

Lacs is another colorant type used in PMU, produced by depositing color onto a substrate to create a 'lake' of color. Depending on their processing, they can be soluble or insoluble, providing excellent color consistency and stability. Lacs are useful for producing colors difficult to achieve with pigments or dyes. However, some lacs might contain heavy metals, posing suitability concerns for certain skin types.

Colorant: Dye

Dyes, the third primary colorant type, are soluble in water and other solvents and have smaller particle sizes than pigments. This allows for brighter, more vivid colors but also means they may fade more quickly and pose higher risks of allergic reactions and skin sensitivity. Dyes are categorized further, such as acid dyes (for protein fibers), basic or cationic dyes (for acrylic fibers), and direct dyes (for cellulose-based fibers like cotton).

Understanding these three colorant types helps professionals in PMU to choose the appropriate substances for different applications, balancing color vibrancy, stability, and skin compatibility.

6. Colorants Categorization: Solubility

Colorants can be divided into two categories based on their solubility: hydrophilic and hydrophobic.

Hydrophilic Colorants

Hydrophilic colorants dissolve in water, facilitating easy mixing and application in water-based solutions. However, they are not fat-soluble, which affects their interaction with various skin types and conditions. Most hydrophilic colorants are organic and relatively rare. Brands like iColor and Permablend offer these pigments, known for vibrant colors, but may require special consideration for clients with oily or thicker skin.

Hydrophobic Colorants

Conversely, hydrophobic colorants do not dissolve in water, complicating mixing. They are fat-soluble, leading to different interactions and retention in skin types. These colorants are typically found in inorganic pigments, often based on glycine, making them denser and potentially more controllable during application. Brands like Doreme and Quantum offer hydrophobic, inorganic pigments suitable for clients with complex skin conditions or seeking a natural appearance.

7. Colorant Categorization: Origin

Categorizing colorants based on their origin is often misunderstood, especially by beginners and many artists.

Organic Colorants - Contain Carbon
Organic colorants contain carbon in their structure. They are free from heavy metals and are deemed safer for skin contact. There are two types: natural organic colorants derived from plants or animals (like henna) and synthetic organic colorants, which are man-made. 'Organic' here refers to carbon-based molecules, whether natural or synthetic.
Inorganic Colorants - Do Not Contain Carbon
Inorganic colorants lack carbon, comprising mineral compounds like oxides, sulfides, and chromates. They are generally more stable, lasting longer with less fading but offer muted colors compared to organic ones. Inorganic colorants, like iron oxides from the earth, can be natural or synthetically made.

Synthetic Colorants - Soluble Dyes

Typically, synthetic colorants refer to soluble dyes created through chemical processes. 'Synthetic' here usually means a specific organic, water-soluble dye type. Due to their solubility, these dyes provide a range of bright colors but may not be as stable or enduring as inorganic or insoluble organic colorants.

Understanding these categories helps in selecting the appropriate colorants for various applications in PMU, considering their solubility, origin, and interaction with different skin types.

8. Understanding Organic Pigments

Organic pigments are renowned for their vibrant, saturated, and luminous colors, offering benefits and challenges in Permanent Makeup (PMU). These pigments have smaller particle sizes than inorganic ones, enabling the creation of rich hues. However, this smaller size can lead to pigment migration, making precise skin distribution more difficult.

UV Sensitivity and Implantation Challenges Organic pigments are sensitive to UV light and are more likely to cause skin sensitization. Therefore, they are typically recommended for experienced professionals who understand how to handle their specific challenges. For example, these pigments shouldn't be densely packed into the skin; a lighter technique with powdered movements and shorter strokes is advised.

Retention and Correction Difficulties

Organic pigments form molecular solid bonds, providing excellent retention and long-lasting results with little change from post-treatment to healing. However, their permanence means mistakes, like overly defined contours or uneven pixelation, can be challenging to correct.

Experience Required for Professional Results

Using organic pigments requires a detailed understanding of skin types. They can be suitable for oily and thick skin but must be applied carefully. Overbuilding the shape or overly saturating the color is not recommended, as these pigments are less tolerant of errors. The reduced need for long-term maintenance due to their durability places greater responsibility on the client and the artist to achieve the desired outcome initially. A conservative approach, especially regarding saturation, is advisable. Techniques like layering and diluting the pigment with a shading solution can manage color intensity without overwhelming the skin.

Caution for New Artists

New artists should pay careful attention to the technical aspects of using organic pigments, such as needle angle, depth, hand speed, and pressure. Consistency is key to avoiding issues like "blowouts," where pigment spreads under the skin, potentially leading to a permanent ashy or dark appearance.

9. Understanding Inorganic Pigments

Inorganic pigments are valued for their stability, UV resistance, and suitability for various skin types. These pigments have larger particle sizes, which reduces the risk of migration in the skin. This attribute, coupled with their lower likelihood of causing sensitization, makes them a safer choice for a wide range of skin types.

Less Vibrant, More Natural Colors

The colors produced by inorganic pigments are typically more subdued, matte, and less saturated than the vibrant hues of organic pigments. They are ideal for clients desiring a natural, subtle effect, often featuring earthy tones. These pigments work well for normal, combination, dry, and mature skin types.

Implantation Challenges

Due to their larger particle sizes, inorganic pigments are more challenging to implant, often requiring multiple passes and greater hand pressure. A layered approach is usually necessary for effective and lasting pigment implantation. This can be beneficial, particularly for new artists or those needing post-healing adjustments. After healing, inorganic pigments may initially show cool tones, which generally evolve into warmer, brown hues.

Need for More Frequent Touch-Ups

Inorganic pigments, being less permanent and fading more readily, require more frequent touch-ups. This allows for more flexibility in adjusting PMU features over time. Using larger needle configurations like 3RL/RS, 5RS, or 7CM is recommended for effective implantation, especially for clients with thicker skin. However, certain needle types should be avoided, especially those unsuitable for pixelated powdering. Many European artists prefer needles like 1RL 0.35 for inorganic pigments, as they typically require a larger diameter for successful implantation.

In summary, inorganic pigments offer benefits and challenges distinct from organic pigments. Their unique properties make them suitable for specific client needs and preferences and are more forgiving for artists refining their techniques.

10. Understanding Hybrid Pigments

Hybrid pigments represent a blend of the organic and inorganic worlds, offering a mix of their advantages. These formulations combine organic and inorganic pigment particles to optimize color brightness, opacity, and longevity. Currently prevalent in the market, hybrid pigments' balanced traits make them a versatile choice in Permanent Makeup (PMU).

Types of Hybrid Pigments

Hybrid pigments come in various formulations instead of a one-size-fits-all approach.

Organic-Based Hybrid Pigments: Contains more organic particles, providing vibrant colors and better saturation than purely organic pigments. 
Inorganic-Based Hybrid Pigments: Have a greater concentration of inorganic particles. Many brands offer this type, known for the subtlety and flexibility characteristic of inorganic pigments.

Benefits of Using Hybrid Pigments

Optimized Color Brightness: They can match the vibrancy of organic pigments while maintaining better stability over time.  Enhanced Opacity: Offer strong coverage like inorganic pigments, suitable for various skin types and conditions. 
Longevity: Blend the lasting qualities of organic pigments with the more transient nature of inorganic pigments for balanced durability.

Considerations Regarding Skin Types

Skin Type Adaptability: Versatile for different skin types, from oily to mature and thin. 
Flexibility and Style: Ideal for clients seeking long-lasting results with the option to adjust shape or color later. 
Saturation Levels: Provide balanced saturation for new and experienced artists.

Additional Considerations

Price: Due to complex formulations, hybrid pigments can be costlier than purely organic or inorganic types. However, experts advise not to compromise on pigment costs. 

Skill Requirement: Effective use may require more in-depth knowledge of organic and inorganic pigments, which can be challenging for beginners. 

Limited Predictability in Fading: Containing elements of both pigment types, the fading rate of hybrid pigments can be less predictable. Testing and personal evaluation are often necessary to understand their healing process. 

Understanding hybrid pigments allows for tailored approaches in PMU, ensuring optimal, long-lasting results for clients, though they may require more investment in cost and artist expertise.

11. When to Use Organic Pigments

Skin Type

Organic pigments are typically more suitable for clients with oily or thick skin.

Longevity

These pigments are quite durable, often lasting 2-3 years before needing a touch-up.

Saturation

Organic pigments usually offer high saturation, potentially eliminating the need for a touch-up after the initial Powder Brows treatment.

Color Retention

Over time, organic pigments may appear cooler due to Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide White. A warm color boost can restore the brows' warmth.

Color Match

Using the same organic pigments is recommended for touch-ups to maintain consistent staying power and coverage.

When to Use Inorganic Pigments

Skin Type. Inorganic pigments are ideal for mature, thin skin, fair-skinned clients with dark hair or visible sun damage.
Flexibility. Beneficial for newer artists and clients who prefer not to commit to a permanent shape or color.
Trendy Styles. Suitable for younger clients desiring bold, highly saturated brows but with the option to change the style as trends or personal preferences evolve.
Saturation. Achieving optimal saturation with these pigments may require multiple layers and treatments.
Touch-ups. Less permanent than organic, inorganic pigments typically require annual touch-ups, ideally every 12-24 months.
Color Match. These pigments offer more flexibility in color choice. Clients can continue using inorganic pigments or switch to organic for increased longevity.
Understanding when to use organic vs. inorganic pigments allows for personalized, effective PMU treatments tailored to each client's skin type, desired style, and maintenance preferences.

12. Suggestions Regarding Aftercare

When it comes to aftercare, it's important to be aware of the residual undertones left by different types of pigments. Organic pigments may leave a cool or ashy undertone, often due to Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide White. In contrast, inorganic pigments can leave a residual undertone of red/orange or cool/ash as Iron Oxide Black breaks down.

During consultations, inform clients that their brows require maintenance for optimal appearance. Schedule this maintenance appointment before they leave, and consider offering incentives to ensure follow-through.

Azo Pigments

While pigments in procedures like Powder Brows are typically safe, challenges can arise during laser removal. This process can destabilize pigment particles due to the heat from the laser light, potentially triggering unwanted chemical reactions.

Azo pigments, known for their bright and stable colors, can be particularly problematic to remove with lasers. When exposed to laser heat, azo pigments may release harmful substances like aromatic amines, which are carcinogenic and can increase cancer risk. Practitioners and clients should be aware of these risks, especially when considering the laser removal of azo pigments.

Although most pigments are safety-approved, caution is advised when opting for laser removal techniques, particularly with certain pigment types like azo-based ones. Understanding pigment chemical composition and potential laser removal risks is crucial for ensuring high-quality, safe services.

13. No Pigments are Really “Organic”

In the Permanent Makeup (PMU) industry, "organic" is frequently used to describe certain pigments. However, it's important to understand that there are no 100% organic pigments in PMU, primarily due to the need for stability, which purely organic pigments cannot provide.

To clarify this, let's examine the technical aspects. Consider the pigment known as "organic black," with the color index CI 77266. This pigment is not entirely organic and is produced using three primary methods: Channel Black, Furnace Black, and Thermal Black. Each method produces a pigment composed of organic and inorganic elements in varying ratios.

For instance, Channel Black comprises 19% organic and 81% inorganic components. Furnace Black features a more balanced ratio of 55% organic to 45% inorganic. Thermal Black, being predominantly inorganic, has a ratio of 99% inorganic to 1% organic materials.

Including inorganic elements in these pigments provides the necessary stability for PMU applications. Purely organic, carbon-based pigments would be too unstable for use in permanent makeup. This understanding is vital for both PMU artists and clients. Recognizing the true composition of "organic" and "inorganic" pigments can offer insights into their behavior over time, including aspects like color retention and safety during procedures such as laser removal.

Thus, while some pigments in the industry are labeled as "organic," it is crucial to acknowledge that they are not completely organic in the strictest sense.

14. Conclusions

In categorizing pigments, particularly in Permanent Makeup (PMU), it's essential to understand the various components that constitute a pigment in its final form. A PMU pigment typically consists of colorants (pigments, lacs, dyes), carriers (like water, glycerin, alcohol), and additives (stabilizers, thickeners, preservatives), and sometimes pH adjusters.

Types of Colorants

Pigments: Insoluble, large particle size, UV stable, provide matte colors. 
Lacs: Soluble or insoluble, offers consistent color, may contain heavy metals. 
Dyes: Soluble, smaller particles produce bright colors. 
Origin of Colorants
Organic Colorants: Contain carbon. 
Inorganic Colorants: Do not contain carbon. 
Synthetic Colorants: Chemically formulated, soluble dyes.

Each colorant type has its advantages and drawbacks. Organic Pigments: Brighter colors, smaller particles, UV sensitive, excellent retention but difficult to correct. Suitable for thick, oily skin. 

Inorganic Pigments: Larger particles, matte colors, UV stable, require larger needles and more touch-ups. Ideal for normal skin types. 
Hybrid Pigments: Combine properties of both organic and inorganic pigments. Most market pigments are hybrids.

Understanding these categorizations and characteristics helps in making informed decisions in your practice. At Holistic PMU, our goal is to provide knowledge that is not only comprehensive but also objectively verified, aiding practitioners in delivering the best possible outcomes.

Different Pigments

1. Background

2. Understanding Pigments